summertime
Although this summer (and year) are completely strange and new for everyone, the summertime here in some ways has remained the same. There are still beautiful sunsets, fields of sunflowers, and plenty of outdoor dining into the long evenings. There was still the big holiday of Ferragosto where Italians flock to the seaside and all businesses close down (usually for 2-4 weeks surrounding the actual holiday on Aug 15). Markets are still happening and picnics are being had.
But of course there are many things that have changed - there are far less tourists and most of the visitors are just from other parts of Italy, most activities are being held only outdoors, there are cancelled concerts and festivals, and the “new norms” are pervasive with social distancing, masks, and hand sanitizer by the litre. Yet with all of these precautions in place, summertime here has been filled with time to slow down, meet with friends for an aperitivo al fresco, and explore some new areas of Italy while there aren’t as many people around.
After our first little outing early July to the Cinque Terre , we’ve since took some day trips to the Saturnia hot thermal springs in western Tuscany, had a day in Florence, hiked to a hidden cold water spring in Umbria, spent a couple of days in an empty Rome, had an afternoon in Cortona, took the ferry to the island in Lake Trasimeno, and visited friends in a beautiful villa in the hills an hour east of us to a place I’ve had on my list for a while now.
Also the winery next door to the new house has been hosting these outdoor “picnic” events each weekend as an “cantina aperta” (open winery) which usually is just a one-time event each year. But because of its popularity this year since so many people are not traveling, they’ve kept it going to sold-out groups each saturday and sunday. We went last month and met up with friends and when we pulled up there were cars parked up the entire road, even a few in the parking area of the site at the house! (I said I should be there each weekend to set up a valet service!). They had wooden pallets scattered around the hillside to use as tables (with the same view as the house!) and then several stations set up to fill up with wine as well as food trucks to grab a little dinner. There was a live band, and everyone can bring their blankets to sit on. It was an amazing lively atmosphere and had the feeling of positivity and hope in moving forward.
Otherwise, work has finally started again on the house (after about 3.5 weeks off in the last month - a combination of the crew finishing another job and then having a week of summer holiday) which feels like we can get moving again. I’ll have to write more soon regarding the structural updates, which there have been a few since my last post. But in the meantime I’m just trying to enjoy the rest of summer, perhaps planning a few more small jaunts around, and soaking up the long summer evenings.
open “picnic” nights at the winery